Dripping taps are a common household annoyance and mean a higher water bill. Although there can be more than one cause, most are simple to fix.
Note: In some parts of Australia it is illegal to work inside pipes or “tap ware” – you will need to call a licenced plumber. If unsure, check with your local water authority.
If you fall into the above category, the following method may be used by a licenced plumber to repair the problem:
Tools
- Wrench or spanner.
- Screwdriver.
- Pliers.
- A cloth to protect the chrome.
- New washers – there are three types of washer which may need replacing; the O-ring, body washer and/or jumper/tap valve (see diagram).
Note: All are available from your local hardware supplier. When you reach Step 7 you will know what type to take to the hardware to buy.
- A silicon lubricant or Vaseline.
Step 1 – Turn off the water to the dwelling. The water main may be found out in your front yard or inside the bathroom or laundry in the case of a flat or townhouse.
Step 2 – Turn on a tap to clear the water remaining in the pipe.
Step 3 – Put the plug in the basin to prevent any tap parts from going down the drain.
Step 4 – Remove the tap cover or button with a screwdriver to expose the screw (you may also be able to screw it off). The screw is most likely under the hot or cold symbol. Some taps will have screws positioned on the side.
Step 5 – Undo the screw and remove the handle.
Step 6 – If the tap is enclosed with a metal cover (flange) unscrew by hand or use the spanner or wrench. Use the cloth over the cover to protect the chrome finish.
Step 7 – Using the spanner or wrench unscrew the tap bonnet. Completely take out the spindle to see the large body washer, O-ring and the jumper/tap valve (this should fall out). If not, pull it out with the pliers. It is best to replace all three washers, take them to your local hardware store to buy new ones.
Step 8 – You could just replace the tap washer, but it is a good idea to replace all three washers at once. The body washer (usually orange) should lift off quite easily. To remove the O-ring on the spindle fully close the tap until it appears. Then using the pliers (or a screwdriver or a sharp knife), prise or cut it off. The new O-ring should simply stretch and roll on to the spindle. Replace the tap washer. Refit the bonnet and spindle. Note: Make sure you do not over tighten the nuts.
Step 9 – Before re-assembling the tap lubricate the spindle and the threaded areas with a silicon lubricant or Vaseline, turn the tap ¾ off, and turn on the water at the mains.
Step 10 – Once the water is running through, turn the tap off slowly using only gentle finger pressure. Over-tightening causes a lot of damage to the tap washer and seat. If the washer and/or other components have been fitted correctly, there should be no more leaks or drips and you should be able to turn the tap on and off with no effort.
Note: If the tap continues to leak, it may need to be re-seated. A licenced plumber can reseat a tap.
To understand how this is done, please see A Guide to Reseating a Tap.
A Guide to Fixing a Leaking Tap,
I have a tap that leak in the shower I’ve been trying to get it of but it is to difficult to get off. It has the tap then the flange which there is no way to get off. Can you tell me how to get off please.
thank you, How to Australia.
The cold water top I can get off, but to undo the bonnent I can seem to be apply to get off there is no place to put wrench or anything else there and when I use tools they don’t grip.
many bonets are put on by hand and tightened slightly. These have no flat areas for a wrench, and are menat to be removed by hand as well. over time, they often get a bit stuck in place but if you are careful, you can use a trick I know that uses heat expansion to release the threads.
Put the kettle on with the minium amount of water in it.
Grab a dish sponge or washrag, and wet it and then wring it out well.
grab your kettle with the ‘Hot’ (not boiling) water, and slowly trickle the hot water on to the base of the bonnet for about 10 seconds and STOP. Put the kettle down and use the sponge to protect your hand form the heat of the bonnet. curl your left hand around the bonnet and grip it firmly. starting with yoyur finger tipsand wraping your hand tightly around the bonnet until you have a good grip and gently put steady and increasing pressere, pulling it Anti-clockwise. The heat of the water wil have expanded the bonnet threads for about an additional 10 seconds so you have to be fast at it.
good luck. Try 2 hands if it doesn’t submit.
Then, the Hamma!
Matthew – the flange you can’t get off. If the flange is screwed on, as it seems it is, it can actually mate with the tap bonnet. I’ve seen them so mated, that when I got the flange undone, the flange and the bonnet to which is is screwed came off together!! I used a thing called a boa to undo the flange. You have to first clean the flange so it’s squeaky clean to get the boa to grip. The boa is like a rubber strap made into a kind of spanner – eBay has them as “boa strap wrench”. The small amount of flat area nearest the shower wall will give enough grip.
How do I remove the cover of the handle – It doesn’t have any tap cover/button to expose the screw. It is just plain metal on top. Brand – Irwell…. Thanks!
Know that I,v got the flange off Cleaned up every thing put back to gether now the cold water is still dripping.
Matthew – re your post that says your tap is still dripping. Did you re-cut the seat? What kind of tap washer did you use? A new one? An inexpensive one? etc. If you cut the seat, and used a good quality washer, it should not be leaking. Phil
Removing bonnets is easy
Just stick some grip tape on & unscrew.
Best to take it off to screw back on.
My flange is shaped like a triangle. I have boa but it slips off without gripping. I am at a losses how to replace sink and shower taps. Did the bath ones ok but that’s it. The bathroom company used cheap plastic and nylon washers? Any helpful ideas appreciated. Thanks Jeff
Me too. It’s like someone designed something in such a way that it will be hardest to get off.
The flange is conical so there is no way the strap wrench can grip. I have used so much WD40 but it won’t budge. I tried the hot water trick above and I considered just destroying the flanges with a hammer and screwdriver, it’s only a decorative feature after all. I’d be embarrassed to call a plumber to change some washers but I’m getting desperate.
Does anyone have any other ideas?
I,v used the Strap wrench and it did not work for me . I when with the hot water technec and sulfed the problem .thack you.give it a try.
I had conical flanges too – Used WD40, left it for 10-15 mins then tapped lightly on all sides using a hammer covered with a chux (to prevent scratches) and it came off. Hope it works for you too …
If the flange comes off by “gentler” methods, that simply means it wasn’t that stuck in the first place. Designers don’t factor in the fusing of the flange to the bonnet as a possibility, preferring instead to focus on a smooth finished look. There is not a flange in existence I cannot remove – but I’d make sure I had a spare one first. I can easily make a spanner for the flange, but some modifying of the flange is required. So, old one off but changed(“damaged”). Then, new flange.
Thank for the tip phil, I,m A little pit worryed about the hot water system when I do that tap should I turn the tap of at the hot water tank there,s only one tap there and the electricty off
All mains pressure water to the hot and cold taps are turned off for this job.
It is possible that in getting the stuck flange off you do some form of damage to those parts of the system which the tap is attached to – eg the water supply lines of copper meet at the wall just behind the taps into a solid cast brass housing, and are together called “the mixing set”(hot and cold are mixed there).
Plumbers buy mixing sets complete to be set in the wall, the wall being either cement or timber etc. You can see them for sale at Bunnings. They aren’t super expensive. Plumbers will tell stories of mixing sets which had to be replaced after a simple tap washer change – they can’t know how it will all turn out in advance. For example, the brass parts can completely crumble on disassemble because they have lost their metal content over time. All that green muck you see on plumbing connections is caused by electrical forces – dissimilar metals(copper and brass are dissimilar) in solutions(the water supply) set up a minor electrical current. You see it on battery terminals in cars too.
Old places, sometimes have the entire water supply lines and mixing set outside the wall “in the room” as it were – not pretty, but the copper tubing is chrome plated at least, and easy to work on because you don’t wreck any part of the tiles or wall in removing a tap washer. You can even cut the copper tubing and weld on some new tubing etc. Same with electricity supply wires – the wires in the tubing(conduit) used to run visibly down the wall, not set in the wall. Modern way with concealed look, is a bit harder, it seems. But you are always imagining the old way(but inside the wall).
Much of the drama with plumbers is caused by how much they charge – I guess you could say they are “under pressure” of cost.
Four years schooling, six years full time practical experience is how you qualify to be a plumber.
Taps are a precision instrument and not to be taken lightly, as is any aspect of plumbing.. Plumbers put their health and their families health on the line daily by exposure to terminal diseases like Hepatitis. They require more tools for their trade than any other professional. QUALITY supplies prices are through the roof (other than the low grade junk that the hardwares stock). Does anyone question the doctors, lawyers, alcohol prices charged? No, they get what they pay for. Certainly the poor quality tradesman workmanship should be questioned but accept the prices that the plumber charges and let them work their magic.
I tried to do my own plumbing once and it ended up costing me THOUSANDS in repairs. Leave the job to the expertly trained professional and you stick to your own trade thats what I say.
“Taps are a precision instrument” – I’m quoting the post by Darrel. Well, let’s say some of the taps are good, and some are, well……cr**. But none are precise. Precision, in the trades at least, belongs to the toolmaker. Toolmakers make the tools which then make everything which plumbers use. Plumbers are not makers of things. Plumbers are heroes though, as anyone who can deal with toilets takes a risk of disease. Drainers, who actually work with sewerage, are impressive. But a concrete contractor will inevitably do some draining. Each trade has it’s skill and is worthy of respect. Darrel is right about knowing what you are doing before you begin. But you don’t need a license to change a tap washer. It’s when it doesn’t want to be changed, that you need to know more.
Phil is obviously intent on trying to dumb down and simplify the job of changing a “tap washer” The sites use of the word “Guide” in its title should tell you that it is not the complete answer.
Most of the issues that I read on this forum are people seeking solutions to hurdles they have encountered whilst attempting to “change a washer”.
An experienced tradesman (licensed) has encountered all the problems presented here many times over and has overcome them in one way or another and through these processes has gained invaluable knowledge that inexperienced and untrained others have not.
The time taken to attempt your DIY tap repair, then the seeking of answers through forums such as this one most definitely exceeds the time required to have the licenced professional do the job.
The other benefit is that you can get a “drip warranty period” from your plumber.
My plumber offers a 2 year guarantee on a “complete tap service” . It has been 4 years and the 20year old taps still pppuuuurrrrrr since his service.
I know what my own hourly earnings are and the cost of my plumber versus DIY is the cheaper option EVERY time.
Wise up people, this site offers imaginary savings by DIY plumbing repairs, it really only serves the unqualified persons income that makes money from its very existence.
Its not helping anyone by preaching DIY work on one of the worlds most destructive components, WATER. Temperature and pressure are the governing forces of the entire universe. Play it safe and leave the risks to the tradesman with the skills to protect lives against failure.
I think you are in the minority Darrel – I know hundreds of people who have successfully changed a tap washer. No license, no trade even. I’ve seen first hand shoddy workmanship from licensed plumbers. $70 just to show up on the job, and then get it wrong. Plumbers have no power over many of the things which are at issue with leaking taps. For example – the pressure in the water mains can be very high in some regions, but bodies corporate will not regulate the pressure going into a property. Nothing to do with the plumber at all. More – the useless rubber tap washers which come with some taps should not even be sold in the first place. Plumbers have nothing to do with it. A good plumber is just a good man doing a good job. It all starts with intention. Anyone cleaning out a blocked sewer deserves more pay than a doctor, and is preventing disease.
I am a 51 year old fully licensed plumber Phil and I have helped literally thousands of those so called “successful washer changes” in my time by doing the complete tap service that only a skilled person can offer. Almost all these DIY attempts fail to administer the entire process or diagnose the problems that may exist and the DIY attempt fails in a relatively short time.
The service call you use as some form of critique may cover so many related travel, time and standard business running costs that it is unjust to deliver it as a “just to show up” argument If you are not willing to pay this cost then as the controlling and paying party in the relationship it is your choice and right to enquire and reject the services at the point of your initial call to the plumber .
I personally charge no service call fees and many of my plumber associates are the same.
Body corporates have a legal obligation in this day and age my friend.
ALL tapware and hydraulic appliances connected to a reticulated potable water supply have a maximum supply pressure, stated in the owners manual, of no greater than 500 kpa.
Should the tapware or appliance fail due to forces of pressure greater than 500kpa then the manufactures warranty is VOIDED. A pressure reduction valve installed at the property meter set by a qualified, trained, skilled and experienced tradesperson can assure compliance therefore proving that IT IS within the plumbers power to overcome a leaking tap issue. If the body corporate has neglected to administer this requirement then they can be held responsible for damages,
The only thing you state that I can agree with is that the person who maintains a SAFE drinking supply and sanitary waste disposal for humans is worth ALL that they ask for their service.
May i suggest that you study up on the AS3500 plumbing standards code of practise that we licensed plumbers are required to adhere to for the safety of the general populas before you continue to promote others to run undue risks in this field of expertise.
Might I suggest there may be possible insurance obligations for consumers to consider by not having a license tradesperson installing or repairing the item of subject? Something very serious to consider if you dont carry the $15,000,000 public liability coverage that we plumbers have and you live in a high rise apartment and flood the building because of your lack of skill and knowledge of correctly servicing a leaking tap.
Its not JUST changing a washer, it can have serious consequence if you fail.
DONT RISK IT!! ALWAYS use a licensed plumber!
I agree with Darrel the plumber – if you don’t understand with some depth, don’t dabble. But I also agree with anyone who wants to have a go at changing a tap washer getting a little help from a site like this. Plumbers need to learn to share, and not try to take over the site.
Did my words touch a bone Phil the “fitter”? I guess the saying “the truth hurts” has substance.
Sorry for entering my response twice and appearing to attemp a “takeover”
Best of luck with your attempt to save people a dollar whilst making one from them Phil.
Sorry Darrel, I didn’t realize this site was run by plumbers so that they could prevent ordinary people from changing a tap washer, and so fill their own pockets. I’ll pass on the word that the site posts things which are not relevant to the questions being asked – that is, they are not actual advice on how to change a tap washer. Rather, they are the familiar hate mail.
Guys, this has gone off from being a constructive difference in opinion. This resource is here simply as a guide for those who want to do their own home handyman work.
There are plenty of non-licensed plumbers, including myself, who have replaced washers in taps without any issues for many years in our own homes.
When in doubt, always consult a professional.
Keep on topic
Quoting How To: “There are plenty of non-licensed plumbers, including myself, who have replaced washers in taps without any issues for many years in our own homes.” What good and sensible words. I can only echo them.
I would expect your employer to back you Phil, it is in the best interest of the site that you both are engaged. My words have not been aimed at preventing people from doing anything merely offering my professionally qualified opinion and pointing out the aspects of the topical advisory that you have no apparent knowledge of Phil.The site is apparently run by an ametuer wannabe plumber who is offering unqualified advise on a subject that he has no tertiary education. There is more to learn from my words of educated, qualified experience than from one who only has a small percentage of facts to offer. Get a license before you even brooch this forums TITLED subject Phil.
I am insensed to read the misleading and incomplete comments that you have previously offerered others here Phil.
RE:- Mathew 19 August. What if Mathew has a cracked seat Phil?? You advise him that Re-seating the body (re-cut) and a quality washer is all that he needs. If the seat does not require re-seating you DO NOT do this process and only a professional knows why Phil. Did you inform him to inspect the seat for CRACKS prior to attempting any repairs or even how to recognise a cracked seat?? Did you inform him that NO amount of “re-cutting” the seat will rectify a cracked seat?? I didn’t read any of this COMPLETE advise offered Phil, only a very unqualified opinion.
Stick with fitting Phil you obviously fall way short of plumbing skills otherwise you would be a licensed one.
You are intent on twisting my words and motives Phil.
OF COURSE people will ask a question that is based on the POSTED, TITLED SUBJECT! Duh
My aim is not to shut down a site but to respond to anyones advise on a subject that I am qualified to offer an expert opinion on. Your qualification again is ????
I recently had to open up a brick wall and replace a tap body because the owners son had been ‘advised” that “anyone” could change the “washer”.
He unknowingly broke the soft-soldered pipe connection in the wall, it cost his dad alot of money not only to make the plumbing repair but to then repair the opening and re- paint. Do you know what soft solder is and its flaws Phil? Have you advised others on this potential danger?
I have hundreds of these stories of which many end MUCH worse.
Try and see beyond a need to satisfy your self importance Phil, lose your ignorance to the full facts that I have presented and stop ill advising people. Stick to Fitting shoes or shop manequins apparell or whatever a Fitter is qualified to fit.
Leave the tapfittng to the educated, qualified, experienced, licensed tradespersons.
Mmmmmwwaaauuuuh!
Darrel you really need to get a job. This site is for helpful people, trying to help others. It’s not meant to be the plumber’s license final examination. I’m sure by now Matthew has either got help, or fixed the leak.
@Darrel – I understand your frustration. But please do not make assumptions, Phil is not employed by us, he merely shares his advice with community for free.
We write articles on an abundance of subjects, not just plumbing – not being a professional does not mean we have no qualifications or have not spoken with people in the trade to verify process as a guide.
We do our very best to qualify our information, we regularly check with professionals in the industries. We also welcome professional input in comments. We often get tradespeople email us with tidbits and extra tricks you can only learn from years of experience.
A lot of comments on this article have also been about a completely different type of tap than the article – many of which we have suggested to seek a local professional.
Any further arguments between either of you will just be hidden. If you want to be helpful, do it in good spirit, please
In the spirit of being helpful in regard to the featured subject I offer this advice ” Get your answers from a licensed plumber “
I awoke this morning to find my toilet cistern is leaking water back into the toilet bowl when refilling after flushing. I turned off the isolating tap supplying water to the cistern. Today I’ll get the familiar “rubber washer” from Bunnings, and install it myself. These washers seem to only last about three or four years before leaks become an issue. But changing the rubber washer always fixes the problem. The old washer always looks “crumpled” and one can see why it would thus leak. It’s not a great designed cistern, but it does the job. There’s a fair bit of brown staining inside the cistern as a result of iron supply pipes leading to the cistern, but this is not an issue, and I found that a wipe with rust remover gets rid of it. Isolating taps are a great idea, and knowing how to fix a tap is the Australian way.
Hi fans! The outlet valve seat washer that Phil mentions will give you 5 to 10yrs harmony when installed by a professional.
If you are placing fragrance/disinfectant tablets in the cistern this will hasten the breaking down process of the synthetic rubber seat washer, as you would expect chemicals to do.
All things are made to last a minimal time but there are ways to maximize the longevity of them if you are educated.
Be wary that the cistern mini tap doesn’t leak when you turn the supply back on. The 8.5 o-ring dries out through lack of use if it has not been installed by a professional who knows to apply tap grease to offer the same longevity just mentioned.
Have fun kids!
According to my tests, here in Brisbane, total dissolved solids in the town water, are at 180-215 parts per million, depending on uncontrolled variables. That’s before you start adding your disinfectants and chemicals to the toilet cistern – this is with regard to chemical degradation of rubber seals in toilet cisterns referred to by a previous poster.
Just want to say thanks. Managed to fix a tap that had been leaking for many weeks with this guide.
Hi,
I live in a flat and have managed to turn off the cold water but there is no switch for hot water and it is the hot water tap in my shower that needs fixing. I am unable to turn off the water for the whole apartment block so I wandering how I turn off my hot water system which is in the basement. Any suggestions??
Hi Pene, At my flat(one flat in a block of 8), if I turn off the cold water to my flat the hot water is automatically turned off at the same time, because the hot water system receives it’s cold water from the same place as all taps in the flat. But if I want the cold to stay on while I off the hot water, there is a tap near the hot water system which controls hot water flow through the hot water system – all the way down to no flow at all.
I have re seated and replaced o rings and washers and my tap is still dripping, almost running. It feels as if I aM turning the tap off and reaching a stop… Any suggestions would be great.
Debbie, go back a couple of steps to when you had the water turned off and the tap disassembled. Now get a small bright torch and shine it into the tap seat area. What can you see? You should see a nice bright ring of shining brass on the area where you reseated. Is it bright? But it should also be a continuous shining ring with no rough areas or cracks. If it’s all good there, you can move on to the other possible faults. You didn’t say which tap you are repairing – the wall mounted shower OR the basin? They sit in a different plane for eg.
Hi,
I’m trying to repair a leak in bath tub tap. I have no problem pulling it apart. My issue is around pulling out the washer from within the system. Is their a particular tool that I need to use.
Thanks for your assistance.
Carlo, I’m guessing it’s a conventional tap washer(you don’t say). If it is, but it’s jammed in or just too deep to reach easily with a pointy nose pliers, the best tool I’ve used is a “fish hook remover” – It has short jaws and a long reach – imagine some fish with sharp teeth to get the picture. Not expensive.